Posts by Susie

Good Food Awards + Fancy Food Show Celebrate the Makers

By Susie, 14 January, 2012,

It does not bode well that I somehow justified eating Xocolatl de David‘s Raleigh Bar that Foodzie is featuring in their Tasting Box at 5:30am. After all, though, it does include bacon in the caramel, and that isn’t so different from having a sticky bun with a side of bacon. Maybe even healthier. They say “life is short; eat dessert first.” And so I did. And it was good. Very good.

Super soft caramel, delicate pecan nougat, ample salt. The perfect breakfast.

So begins my favorite time of year–a celebration of incredible foods, entrepreneurship, and people connecting in person.

That is–the NASFT’s Fancy Food Show and the Good Food Awards, which took place last night and features the award-winning food crafters in a marketplace at the San Francisco Ferry Building today along with the Saturday farmers market.

Some choice tidbits from the awards ceremony speeches:

Coffee roasters must collaborate and be passionate, patient, and methodical.

Beer makers all want to see each other succeed even though we’re competitors.

Clear Creek Distillery wanted to start making eau de vie in the 80s for a multitude of reasons: to provide jobs, save watersheds, avoid losing the farm, and offset bad crop years. Steve McCarthy said:

Spirits makers have to make stuff that wows sommeliers. Forget about the branding. Make good products and the brand will follow. We can’t get support from buyers unless they know exactly what they’re getting. The labels should say who made it what is in it, not some puffy language that conceals it was unloaded from a truck and bottled as an artisan product.

Clear Creek bought more than one million pounds of Oregon fruit this year to make its eau de vie.

It was good.

Teaching Your Craft – Do Food Products & Classes Compete ?

By Susie, 9 January, 2012,

Will teaching your craft compete with your own artisan food sales? Maybe, but the truth is people who want to learn to preserve are even more likely to appreciate your own foods. In the bay area, June Taylor, Happy Girl Kitchen, and Blue Chair Fruit are just a few of the crafters who supplement their product sales with classes ranging from $50 to several hundred dollars. Many chocolatiers take the approach of teaching skills to make candy at home, or writing a book–as Nina Wanat of the former Bon Bon Bar did for home confection making–without sharing trade secrets.

I had the pleasure of attending a marmalade class with Happy Girl. It impressed me how Jordan Champagne gave us the full scoop on how they make their marmalades. Much as when I learned how difficult it is to craft silver jewelry in a metal-working class, I now feel “closer” to their products with an affinity and more likely to appreciate the products’ pricing. That makes me happy.

Heard any “horror” stories of those who learned to fish?

Built to Last: 135 Marzipan Makers and Niederegger

By Susie, 2 January, 2012,

German Candy Industry Report: Part 1

Making candy is a centuries old profession, easy to start yet difficult to master and develop a cult following. If you think the environment for candy is competitive today, hearken back to the early 1800s, when the medieval town of Lubeck, Germany was home to 135 marzipan “companies.” Back then companies were likely a small storefrontwith the basics found in an old fashioned candy store–a kettle, marble slabs, some molds.

I recently learned about the region’s delicious history–a place where the museum features figures carved in marzipan rather than wax–on a tour of mid-sized candy and chocolate factories with the German Sweets association. Since 1996, “Lübecker Marzipan,” from Lübeck in northern Germany, has been protected by an EU Council Directive as a “Protected Geographical Indication” (PGI) much like Champagne.

Niederegger Museum Marzipan History Map

Who needs a wax museum when you can have a marzipan museum? (Niederegger Museum Marzipan)

“That’s the marzipan I get at Cost Plus!” a friend exclaimed. Sold in 40 countries and on all continents, Niederegger‘s 500 dedicated* employees churn out about 30 tons of marzipan paste per day. If Lubeck could solve its debt problems with marzipan, everyone would be happy. Despite tough times the company’s sales have done quite well. Much like the “sin” products, they’ve found a little marzipan makes life rosier.

*One just retired after 45 years!

niederegger marzipan

Our Factory Tour

It was an almond lover’s dream. After a steam blanching, winnowing to remove the skins, six women sit, pulling out any odd or unskinned almonds.

Overhead conveyors filled with almond paste dumped the mixtures into the vats. After roasting, the mixture cools in a 500-kilo capacity vat. Steaming dry ice does the job. We tasted chunks of freshly ground paste scooped out of the copper kettles, as well as the marzipan after roasting–which happens after the sugar is mixed with the almond paste. “Eat a lot,” our guide urged us.” We need to finish it all.” Sigh.

Through an extruder in which about 10 inch square logs of sugared almond paste squeeze through, chopped into 18 inch blocks, weighing about 15 kg, which are then wrapped to be aged in plastic cartons. There the flavor develops.

After aging, the special flavors such as a European rose water are added. Then it’s off to the enrobing lines where stamped out hearts take shape.

The seasonal-shaped marzipans are what’s really special. In December, Easter production begins. An army of standing bunnies emerged on a conveyor belt, destined to be torched–with a creme brulee style-and eyes added by bespectacled women holding tiny paint brushes. Dot. Dot.

Nearby, workers laboriously press molds with marzipan, just as in old times, for custom orders or as cake toppers. Consumers and businesses can order molds in any shape or saying, such as for corporate gifts. The company keeps the molds on hand for any future orders.

Some Business Best Practices

Niederegger handles export in-house to allow for quick decision making and personal relationships. They diversified with a series of German “nougat” products (which is similar to Italian gianduja), to reach non-marzipan loving candy lovers. The company does not private label and they would never entertain it due to their strong brand recognition and demand for their 300 products.

As with other factories we visited on this candy industry tour, employees at Niederegger are welcome to air any issues to management. Even broadcast news teams have visited the factory to see workers stretching and engaging in mini-workouts for ergonomic and overall health. Now a smoke-free company, it’s verboten to smoke during the workday. And production workers rotate roles for variety.

My Take

While it is a mystery as to how Niederegger charged ahead despite their 135 competitors two centuries ago, I can tell you today what impresses me:

Product: Less sugar means a more subtle refined flavor. It’s made simply with 70 percent Mediterranean origin almonds–the minimum percentage to be labeled “Lubeker marzipan”–along with sugar, a touch of rose water, and another secret ingredient. On the contrary many lower-priced marzipans have up to 50 percent sugar.
Packaging: A variety of packaging for personal consumption and gift giving (tins, souvenir boxes, adorable seasonal packs). Delicate sparkly vibrant foil wrapping and informational paper wrapped around each of the rectangular pieces. Old fashioned elegance. The thin foil just feels good on your fingers.
Price: All of the above allows the company to charge a sustainable price.

What’s your take?

Learn more and get your hands on some Niederegger.

Tis the Season for Good Food Synchronicity

By Susie, 20 December, 2011,

I still marvel at two food-related bizarre coincidences that happened a few years ago. In the spirit of the season I thought I’d share the joy that can come from talking to strangers:

tartine croissant and jam

Story 1: A Mother and Daughter Bakery-Based Reunion

A couple of days ago the lure of Tartine Bakery in San Francisco finally won me over. I stopped in for a croissant the moment they opened, knowing the butter would still be meltingly warm from the oven. The woman helping me asked if I wanted jam. The apricot did not particularly appeal, but after I commented that I wish I could have brought some great jam I had at home, she said by all means go get it.

The flaky abundant croissant fulfilled my food fantasies and I enjoyed every calorie, particularly with this Tayberry jam my sister had brought from Oregon. Immediately after my satisfying breakfast, I emailed my sister to tell her how I’d enjoyed pairing the jam with the croissant.

Yesterday she stopped by the maker of this jam at the farmer’s market in Oregon. While standing there she told her friend how I’d eaten this berry jam with a Tartine croissant. The jam maker’s reply: “My daughter makes the croissants at Tartine.”
Just writing that gives me chills. Here almost 400 miles apart, I had rushed home to get this jam made by the mother of the person who made the croissant I ate it with. If you didn’t believe in some kind of universe before this, maybe you do.

Or perhaps you need to read this next story first.

Story 2: The Sticky Bun Susie Sought Out Comes to Susie

One day I visited my favorite coffee house in San Leandro, CA called Zocolo. All morning I’d thought about the pecan sticky bun I’d had there, made by an artisan bakery. They were out. Crestfallen, I ate a bagel instead.

The next morning I found myself at Peet’s Coffee in San Francisco. After reading each section of the newspaper I handed them to the three young women sitting next to me.

One of them said: “You’re so kind to offer these. What can I give you in return? How about advice? Do you like pastries?”

Our information exchange about the most succulent baked goods flew. She told me about a nearby French bakery known for the most buttery pastries ever. There’s this great cafe in San Leandro, I explained, with the most heavenly pecan sticky buns. It turned out her husband worked nearby and she made a note to send him to the cafe to get her a sample.

“My sister works for a bakery” she said, pointing to the girl next to me. I asked what it was called. “Raison d’Etre” she replied.

This was the bakery that makes the very sticky buns I’d craved the day before.

“I have one in the car I can give you” her sister said. And we walked down the street. She opened a cooler, unwrapped a foil ball, and before me presented the genuine article: the pecan sticky bun of my quest.

As I dove in, we shook our heads in amazement at this bizarre coincidence.

On Being a Connector and Synchronicity

I just read a quote by Wayne Dyer that connectors often experience synchronicity / coincidences and are used to it. While I’m known as a connector I never get used to things as highly improbably as those I described above. Is this The Secret’s proverbial Law of Attraction at work (attracting delicious pastries to me)?

I’d love to hear your wildest synchronicity stories!

No Brainer Food Gift Basket Idea That Keeps On Giving

By Susie, 12 December, 2011,

A few weeks ago the 2012 Good Food Award finalists were announced. A box or basket made up of a variety of foods from these good food producers–as well as the 2011 award winners–makes a gift that’s 1) delicious, 2) tells stories you can chat about AND 3) a chance to have your own judging competition. Many of these only sell locally–very likely found in your best local specialty and cheese shops.

For those selling online you’d need to act fast (apologies for the slackerly late post!) to get them in time for the holidays. Enjoy!

The 2012 Finalists:

Beer

Alaskan Brewing Company, Smoked Porter Alaska
Almanac Beer, Summer 2010 Vintage Blackberry Ale California
Ballast Point Brewing Company, Sculpin India Pale Ale California
Brooklyn Brewery, Local 2 New York
The Bruery, Oude Tart California
COAST Brewing Company, 32/50 Kolsch & HopArt IPA South Carolina
Drake’s Brewing Co., Drakonic Imperial Stout & Drake’s 1500 Pale Ale California
Fish Brewing Company, IPA & Winterfish Seasonal Ale Washington
Goose Island Beer Company, Pepe Nero Illinois
Hopworks Urban Brewery, Abominable Winter Ale & Hopworks IPA Oregon
Independence Brewing Co., Convict Hill Stout Texas
Lagunitas Brewing Company, a lil’ Sumpin’ Sumpin’ California
New Belgium Brewing, Mothership Wit Colorado
Odell Brewing Company, 90 Shilling & Odell IPA Colorado
Pagosa Brewing Company, Coconut Porter Colorado
Pike Brewing Company, Pike Naughty Nellie Golden Style Ale Washington
Smuttynose Brewing, Robust Porter New Hampshire
Victory Brewing Company, Helios Ale & HopDevil Ale Pennsylvania

Charcuterie

Adesso, Speck California
Café Rouge, Duck Pate California
CHOP Butchery and Charcuterie, Herbs de Provence Salami Oregon
Columbus Foods, Finnochiona California
Creminelli Fine Meats, Bresaola Piccolo & Finnochiona Salami Utah
Cypress, Soppressata South Carolina
Fatted Calf, Pork, Rabbit, and Duck Terrine California
Formaggio Kitchen, Rabbit Pate Massachusetts
Gary West Smoked Meats, Elk Strips Oregon
La Quercia, Country Cured Bacon Iowa
Letelier Food Co., Chicken Liver Pate Texas
Marche, Duck Liver and Apple Mousse Oregon
Olympic Provisions, Chorizo Navarre Oregon
Pine Street Market, Coppa Georgia
Red Apron Butchery, Crème de Cochon Virginia
S. Wallace Edwards and Sons, Surryano Ham Virginia
Tails and Trotters Charcuterie, Liver Pate & Pork Pastrami Oregon
5 Knives, a project of Vermont Smoke and Cure, Cob and Maple Smoked Ham Vermont

Cheese

Achadinha Cheese Company, Capricious California
Avalanche Cheese Company, Cabra Blanca, Hand Bandaged Goat Cheddar & Lamborn Bloomers Colorado
Bellwether Farms, Carmody & Whole Milk Ricotta California
Canal Junction Farmstead Cheese, Charloe Ohio
Cellars at Jasper Hill (Scholten Farms), Weybridge Vermont
Cherry Grove Farm, Toma New Jersey
Cypress Grove Chevre, PsycheDillic California
Garden Variety Cheese, Black Eyed Susan & Hollyhock California
Goatsbeard Farm, Goatsbeard Fresh Cheese Missouri
Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Certoux Oregon
Hidden Springs Creamery, Driftless Wisconsin
Mozzarella Company, Hoja Santa Goat Cheese Texas
Old Chatham Sheepherding Co., Kinderhook Creek New York
Rainbeau Ridge, Meredian & MontVivant New York
Rivers Edge Chevre, Sunset Bay & Valsetz Oregon
Saint Benoit Yogurt, Organic Yogurt Cheese California
Uplands Cheese, Pleasant Ridge Reserve Wisconsin

Chocolate

Amano Artisan Chocolate, Guayas Utah
Bittersweet, Rich Milk California
Dandelion Chocolate, 70% Costa Rica California
Escazu Artisan Chocolate, 60% Goat’s Milk & 65% Costa Rica North Carolina
Fresco Chocolate, 214 Madagascar 74% & 217 Chuao 70% Washington
Lillie Belle Farms, Perfect Illusion 65 Oregon
Patric Chocolate, LLC, PBJ OMG & Signature 70% Blend Missouri
Rogue Chocolatier, Inc., Hispaniola & Sambirano Massachusetts
Theo Chocolate, Theo and Jane Goodall 70% Dark Chocolate Washington

Coffee

Broadway Café and Roasting Company, Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Missouri
Counter Culture Coffee, Buna Ababa – Haru North Carolina
Equator Coffees & Teas, Ethiopia Watadera FTO California
Flying Goat Coffee, Ethiopia Sidamo Moredocofe California
George Howell Coffee Company, Konga Yirgacheffe Massachusetts
Gimme! Coffee, Colombia Finca San Luis New York
Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co., Organic Ethiopia Koke Missouri
Kickapoo Coffee, Organic Biloya Yirgacheffe Wisconsin
Klatch Coffee Inc., Ethiopia Worka California
Noble Coffee Roasting, Colombia Finca San Luis Oregon
Sightglass Coffee, Ethiopia Shakiso California

Pickles

Ann’s Raspberry Farm and Specialty Crops, Savory Brussel Sprout Relish Ohio
CHOP Butchery and Charcuterie, Our Bread and Butter Oregon
Coldwater Canyon Provisions, Spiced Crabapples California
Cuisine en Locale, Pickled Peaches Massachusetts
Datil B Good Products, Datil Pear Relish Florida
Emmy’s Pickles and Jams, Turmeric Cauliflower California
Farmhouse Culture, Smoked Jalapeno Sauerkraut California
Firefly Kitchens, Cortido Sauerkraut Washington
Let’s Be Frank, Devil Sauce California
McClure’s Pickles, McClure’s Garlic Pickles Michigan
Miss Jenny’s Pickles, Habanero Bread and Butter Pickles North Carolina
OlyKraut LLC, Eastern European Sauerkraut Washington
Real Pickles, Organic Garlic Dill Pickles & Organic Red Cabbage Massachusetts
Sour Puss Pickles, Ramps New York
Spirit Creek Farm, Curtido Wisconsin

Preserves

American Spoon, Heirloom Tomato Preserve & Wild Thimbleberry Jam Michigan
Ann’s Raspberry Farm and Specialty Crops, Jalapeno Raspberry Gourmet Jam & Red Raspberry Gourmet Jam Ohio
Artisan Preserves, Orange Honey Marmalade California
Chez Pim, Blueberry and Golden Raspberry Jam California
Confituras, Bourbon Brown Sugar Peach Preserves Texas
Dagstani and Sons, Pear Vanilla Preserves Colorado
Deluxe Foods, Jeweled Strawberry Preserves Washington
Ellelle Kitchen, Fig Walnut with Backyard Orange California
Farmer’s Daughter Brand, Strawberry Honeysuckle Jam North Carolina
Half-Pint Preserves, Rhubarb Strawberry Rose Petal Jam New York
HeathGlen Organic Farm & Kitchen, Blueberry Lavender Merlot Jam Minnesota
P&H Soda Co., Hibiscus Soda Syrup New York
Plumline, Raspberry Jam California
Sweet Creek Foods, Organic Raspberry Fruit Spread Oregon
Sweet Deliverance, Concord Grape Jelly New York
The Orchard at Flathead Lake, Organic Blushing Tart Cherry Jam Montana
Wine Forest Wild Foods, Wild Elderberry Shrub California

Spirits

1512 Spirits, Barbershop Rye California
Balcones Distilling, LLC, Rumble Cask Reserve Texas
Ballast Point Brewing Company, Aged Three Sheets Rum California
Cascade Peak Spirits, Inc., Organic Nation Vodka Oregon
Clear Creek Distillery, Poire William Eau de Vie Oregon
Death’s Door Spirits, White Whiskey Wisconsin
Downslope Distilling, Wine Barrel Aged Rum Colorado
Finger Lakes Distilling, Cherry Liqueur & McKenzie Rye Whiskey New York
Leopold Bros, Maraschino Liqueur & Tart Cherry Liqueur Colorado
Marian Farms, Ltd., California Pisco California
Peak Spirits, CapRock Gin & CapRock Vodka Colorado
RoughStock Montana Whiskey, Montana Whiskey Montana
Square One Organic Spirits, Basil Vodka & Organic Vodka Idaho
Wylie Howell Spirits, LLC, Whiskey, California