Archive for ‘Food & Travel’

Scone Baker Keeps It Sweet and Simple

By , 16 April, 2012,

Who says you have to quit your day job or plan for growth? No one. I recently inhaled the most buttery scone I’ve ever experienced and chatted for a while with Shawn Walker-Smith, whose Tart! Bakery the East Bay Express newspaper profiled (along with this lovely photo I snapped).

He loves baking and is making extra money on the side…of his job at a bakery. The cost of getting licensed didn’t deter him. So if he decides to expand, he’s all set.

Sweet. Simple. The new-ish Arbor Cafe that’s lucky enough to carry his scones is also lucky enough to have an attraction to draw in customers…aside from their great local Bicycle coffee.

Shawn

Where Chocolate Easter Bunnies Come From

By , 28 March, 2012,

German Sweets Tour: Niederegger Marzipan | Coppenrath Bakery

Although not widely advertised by Santa Claus, the colorful foil wrapped hollow chocolate eggs and bunnies many of us have devoured, head first, originate not on Easter Island or the North Pole but from a place that also brings life to hollow chocolate Santas: In Germany, Rubezahl Schokoladen lays claim to bringing these seasonal delights to the chocolate craving public.

On our tour of German candy factories, we had a chance to see how chocolate eggs and bunnies transform from cacao mass to chocolate to chicky under their Gubor brand. Here’s what we saw:

chocolate easter egg factory

Filling chocolate Easter eggs with colorful candy. Surprise!

Rubezahl has a photo tour on their site — alas in German — for those who want to demystify your chocolate bunny yet as you munch on its feet. Or if you want to get your hands on them for your candy store, try contacting Germany’s Best.

As it was Christmas time we munched on hollow chocolate Santas. Hi Santa! Bye Santa.

Oregon Cheese Festival 2012 Discoveries

By , 18 March, 2012,

The almost-most wonderful time of year is when the Oregon Cheese Festival rolls around. This Rogue Valley event — which kicked off with a Cheese Makers Dinner in Ashland — attracts many of Oregon’s best food and beverage artisans and farmers. My Oregon emissary Robin attended this year’s event, and here’s what really caught her palate:

  • Zella Hazelnuts out of Bend, OR was sampling delicious dry roasted hazelnuts made by generations of hazelnut growers. An interesting tidbit: The farmers switched from calling the nuts filberts to hazelnuts when they realized that no one knew what filberts were. (Here’s what the Oregon Hazelnut Marketing Board has to say about that.)
  • Zorba’s Chocolates out of Ashland, OR uses raw, unroasted cacao beans in their chocolate making to be as close to “fresh off the tree” as possible. Their chocolate was intense dark, and the espresso and plain ganache  truffles struck me as delicious.
  • Aside from local favorite Rogue Creamery, some interesting “new to me” cheese makers I look forward to exploring more in the future included Tumalo Farms from Bend; La Mariposa cows milk cheese made by an Argentinian transplant in Albany, OR; Portland Creamery; Briar Rose Creamery from Dundee, OR.
  • I also had a wonderful locally made lavender jelly from L’Islandoux made by a delightful French woman.
  • And to top it all of, fantastically fluffy marshmallows from Marshmallow Heaven from Rogue River.

See who else was there — a long list of fabulous food worth pursuing next year!

~Robin

Cookies for the People! Good Business Case Study: Coppenrath Cookie Bakery

By , 15 March, 2012,

German Sweets Tour: Niederegger | Coppenrath

German Candy Industry Report: Part 2

Did you ever wonder who makes those European cookies you see at the drugstore with cute patterns printed on or a tablet of chocolate…and how they get to our store shelves at some insanely low price like $1.99?

I have. So it was no minor thrill to visit one such bakery, in Northern Germany. In my second report from an epic mid-sized confections tour with German Sweets , learn about Coppenrath Fein Bakerei, a several generation old, family bakery whose intention is to produce natural, excellent baked goods at a price accessible to any consumer.

The answer to that first question came from Andreas Coppenrath: volume. Coppenrath sells in about 100 countries, with 15,000 tons of cookies annually emerging from a relatively small factory where, in the high season, 250 people work. While this may sound like a lot, their reach in the U.S. is limited by their capacity to serve our nationwide chains…as we found with many of Germany’s old family owned sweets businesses. (As someone who enjoys discovering products abroad we can’t get at home, it’s not necessarily a bad thing!)

On our factory tour, Andreas particularly impressed me with his leadership skills, openness about the operations, and innovation. For example, 6-packs of Sponge Cakes for tart bases get sold alongside strawberries. We loved their cookies (especially one reminiscent of a Milano but with coconut).

Andreas left no question unanswered — with something to illuminate bakers and food manufacturers of all sizes:

Some Background – “Honor the past and go for the future.”

This sixth-generation family business started in 1825. World War II might have felled the company, but Andreas’ grandmother, suddenly a single mom in 1942 after her husband died, managed to keep it going with eight kids, all the while harboring Jewish locals in her cellar. The town memorialized her with a street in her name.

Coppenrath cookiesToday Coppenrath is the leading producer of speculaas (or speculoos, in Wikipedia and the Netherlands), a seasonal spice cookie pressed by brass rollers into shapes like windmills, kids, and animals. “Speculaas” may ring a bell. It is also the magic ingredient used in “cookie spread” as well as a filled chocolate currently sold at Trader Joe’s.

Secrets to Sweet Success

Employees are trained in bakery — rather than only in a rote production method — so they can understand if the smell, texture, and result work or how small changes might affect the recipe.

Keep employees very happy. Production workers get a daily 3-4% of salary bonus based on meeting production goals. Andreas has an open door policy. No wonder some employees have been there 40 years.

One line, many cookies. They can switch heavy brass rollers to imprint patterns. At a high enough volume Coppenrath can produce various designs and co-pack for others who want custom designed cookies.

The company prototypes products not in small batches but on the production machines to see what the real result would be.

Much equipment has wheels so it can move around as needed. In one shift they can produce 40,000 packages. In 24 hours, 100,000 600-gram packs.

They source flour from several mills. Flour quality and flavor varies by wheat growing region. They blend to their specification and choose the flours that fit the best. They visit their suppliers to check the facilities.

Challenges

Ingredients prices have skyrocketed (worldwide, really), with sugar increasing from 500 to 900 Euros per ton in one fell swoop. 2011 was the worst year.

Every market has different taste. English market likes colored cookies. Netherland fatty cookies. The more north you go in Germany the more popular dark chocolate. Milk chocolate and sweeter taste, more so in the south. The solution? Pick your market and develop products accordingly.

The UE requires ingredients traceability. For example, eggs can be tracked down to the specific chicken.

International labeling is also tricky. Some countries allow a sticker with their language and others require it printed on.

Packaging Innovations and Challenges

Coppenrath’s resealable packaging for cookies in trays struck me as brilliant. You peel back the top, lined with sticky stuff on the edges, then peel it back closed when you’re done. This format is great for snacking, keeping the product fresh, and making it easier to open the package.

Andreas conducts in-store research himself, going to departments unrelated to his products, like toilet paper. He looks away then quickly turns to the product display to see what catches his eye.

After observing and learning that packaging where a person on the package looking directly at you (or the camera) is the most eye catching they developed a counter top display case with single serve cookies. (It’s true! Check store shelves and you’ll find a striking number of people gazing back into your eyes like the Brawny man.) Each pack includes a thought-provoking saying or quote.

They produce efficient, useful packaging. In a year they use one million meters of cookie packaging, all printed at once. Folding cardboard cookie tray gets assembled automatically without glue, making it perfectly recyclable.

Mixed cases in 1/4 pallet sizes allow an in-store standalone display simply by un-shrink wrapping. This is particularly popular in small stores. Six-packs of cookies in plastic carry packs with a handle are popular at warehouse stores. Cookie totes!

My favorite tidbit: Cookies with chocolate can ship packed below the water line in containers as refrigeration.

US Availability

Coppenrath sells through four importers in the U.S. Look them up at Coppenrath Fein Bakerei.

Want to Start a Preserves Business? Here’s One Way…

By , 12 March, 2012,

inna jamHot off the pixels, the San Francisco Chronicle introduces the new Food Craft Institute (FCI), based in Oakland’s Jack London Square from the folks who brought us the Eat Real festival. The institute will offer what I call “apprenticeship bootcamps,” with hands-on learning from numerous food crafters and entrepreneurs as well as business-ey types such as moi!

You can learn from the likes of Dafna Kory, who is taking her jam business – kicked off at the local forage sf underground markets – to the next level, thanks to Kickstarter. Chip in and get some of her popular preserves. Hope to see you at the FCI!

Or think really big about how you might start a unionized berry farm with an honor system farm stand like Swanton Berry Farm.

swanton berry farm by susie wyshak