Archive for ‘California Food’

Growing Esrogs for Sukkot (October 14)

By Susie, 14 October, 2008,

Esrogs are an important part of Sukkot, a Jewish historical and agricultural festival. It seems only fitting to celebrate a major grower of esrogs who is also finally relaxing after an intense harvest season!

If you want to use your citrons creatively after the holiday, here are some ideas. You can read more about the grower in The Saga of the Citron Selecting the Perfect Etrog.

Citron Cooking and Learning With Slow Food

By Susie, 30 September, 2008,

The Aqua Terra Slow Food convivium held a fun two-hour citron extravaganza at the June Taylor Still-Room in Berkeley.

We Learned
Through the magic of video and speakerphone, we learned all about citrons (esrogs) from the only large commercial grower in the US, John Kirkpatrick.

John grows five varieties of citrons, which have various characteristics such as differences in the peel, number of seeds, and proportion of pulp:
Temoni (originally from Yemin), Buddha’s Hand, Halperin, Kivelovitz, Braveman, Chazon Ish
The foam “bedding” keeps the citrons free from blemishes.

We Ate and Drank
Several of us brought the results of our citron cooking experiments, made with citrons received in advance:

Preserved citrons - Based on a preserved lemons recipe from the Apple Farm.
Citron marmalade – Made with 2 entire fruits
Citron candy – Made by June Taylor. Visit the Ferry Building farmer’s market soon and you might be able to find a bag of this delicious chewy candy.
Hangar One Buddha’s Hand vodka kindly donated by St. George Spirits, who call John a “marvelous human being.”
Candied Citrons and Citron Syrup which I made, simply by putting equal parts sugar and water in a pan with sliced fruit and letting it reduce. But when I left the fruit in the syrup, the syrup ultimately became very bitter. In my first go around when I poured the syrup out right away, it was delicious (especially in a citron-jito with mint!)
Citron Curd (like lemon curd) – This was everyone’s favorite.
Citrons in Sugar, from an 1830 cook book, where slices layered with sugar extract the little juice there is.

Click to see the big Victorian Sponge Cake recipe. Heavenly butteriness.

Delicious Citroncello recipe was based on this limoncello recipe.

(You too can have as much citronolicious fun as Vera provided at one of her famous parties.)

…and we had FUN.

Where to Get Citrons
After the Sukkot celebration in October, the price of citrons will come down. You can find them at the Monterey Market and Berkeley Bowl in Berkeley, CA as well as various specialty markets around the US (although I’m not sure where).

Learn More About How John Grows the Citrons
Here’s a short video, roosters and all!

Visit Harley Farms – Delicious Award-Winning Goat Cheese

By Susie, 8 September, 2008,

A bucolic country goat farm in the San Francisco Bay Area?

My quest to find Harley Farms led me to the back road of Pescadero, a small town which, as noted has a back “road,” not “roads.” It’s perhaps most famous for Duarte Tavern’s old time artichoke soup but Harley Farms is well on its way to becoming a main attraction. (Just Google it and you’ll see).

On my visit, Dee Harley and Ryan were still decompressing from Slow Food Nation weekend. Harley Farms’ cheese is in such demand, they’d work all day then spend nights trying to churn out enough for the anxious masses. It’s no wonder: Their delicately fresh cheeses have won numerous First Place awards from the American Cheese Society, among others.

Dee showed me the beautiful upstairs hall, overlooking the goats, with a long wooden table and chairs they’d made by hand themselves over the years. Definitely a place to get married or throw a “slow party.”

In the store you’ll find lots of playful signs and gifts along with a full spread of cheeses to taste. (The pepper coated log is my favorite. Somehow the pepper brings out the goat flavor.) Learn all about the varieties and ask Dee your questions.

When you visit: The beach at Pescadero is very accessible. I highly recommend bringing a cooler, planning a late morning at Harley Farms, picking up cheese, and heading to the beach for a picnic along with extra cheese for home. You’ll find great artichoke laden bread in town.

If you can’t visit: Enjoy this tour, in which Ryan gives me an overview of Harley Farms. (It’ll make you find a way to visit.)

Graber Olives – Old Time Obscure California Goodness

By Susie, 20 August, 2008,

Had I not become acquainted with a relative of the grower of these olives, I may not have discovered the most buttery delicious tree-ripened olives I’ve had.

Graber Olives are one of the few canned olives I’ve had worth a “gourmet” price.

Seek these finger-eating good olives out or order online if you enjoy rich creamy olive flavor. I needn’t say more: This family business, based in Ontario, California, has been alive and picking since the 1800s.