When I met Evan and Leo at the Good Food Awards, they were toting around loaves of hard crusted bread and some of the most tender, creamy rugelach I’ve had the pleasure of “testing.” These guys from Los Angeles’ San Fernando Valley have deli in their roots. Now they’re taking old classics like corned beef, kugel, bialy, and everything else you crave from a deli and making it all from scratch using the best local, sustainable ingredients.
Wise Sons Deli is just getting started. In fact there’s no actual deli yet! The boys are cooking at La Cocina, with limited pop-up appearances for brunch. Plan your Saturday Feb. 5 around them: 11-2pm at 105 Valencia St in San Francisco.
If you need convincing, check out the food in my quick video and this SF Weekly review:
Leo Beckerman and Evan Bloom with Sarah Weiner at the Good Food Awards.
While prepping to take Augustus Gloop and a few other lucky chocolate lovers on a San Francisco chocolatier tour in “chocolate central” – an unassuming warehouse in the Dogpatch area – I started thinking about the Bay Area’s chocolate history and the scene today.
This naturally led me to reflect on my own chocolate obsessions, which although it dates me, I simply had to share. Because there’s nothing better than a chocolate covered date!
Dark Ages:
-Discovered The American Chocolate Truffle at Alice Medrich‘s Cocolat shop in North Berkeley. Later interviewed to work at their HQ as well as the Judy’s candy factory.
-Delighted to hear about Guittard (the chocolate used by See’s), when my old boyfriend tipped me off that he used to dumpster dive at “some chocolate factory” as a teen. Have enjoyed buying bulk chunks for instant home chocolate-making fixes ever since (available at the Milk Pail market in Mountain View and Spun Sugar in Berkeley). Somehow never managed to get to the Ghirardelli factory in San Leandro although I lived nearby and couldn’t get enough of the chocolate breeze.
-When I read about The Candy Box, a famous old Yuba City turtle making candy store in California’s “prune belt” – my sister and I shouted “road trip!” We promptly inhaled a number of double stacked turtles, while enjoying conversation with the old tyme 80s-something candy maker, who encouraged us to try the “famous” dark chocolate steamed prunes (Yes they rocked!) As a caveat, I ordered some years later and was not quite as thrilled; although it may be me.
-I visited the Hershey factory several times in Oakdale, a location with a real walk-through tour that many locals didn’t know existed…till they moved to Mexico. Now an old Bay Area candy-making company Sconza took their place.
dot com era
-Got addicted to visiting Michael Recchiuti‘s tiny stand for $5 bags of “slightly damaged” bonbons at the old San Francisco farmer’s market, formerly in a cozy parking lot north of the Ferry Building.
-I still have the clipping from an early Scharffen Berger article in the SF Chronicle magazine: Imagine, two audacious men on a mission to create a great American dark chocolate. Positively thrilling.
-Visited Richard Donnelly‘s workshop in Santa Cruz to enjoy my first chipotle truffles.
Twas at the dawn of the new millennium that by sheer happenstance and dot connecting I found myself starting the Fair Trade chocolate program in small, antique office in downtown Oakland with TransFair USA. Most memorably this gave me an opportunity to have a blind chocolate tasting with Alice Medrich and Robert Steinberg, one of Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker’s founders, so he could illustrate that the beans available for organic and Fair Trade chocolates were not up to snuff, at the time. (The next year I diverted a trip from Avignon to Italy through Lyon to visit Bernachon.)
Fast forward to 2009:
-An epic year working with Foodzie , meetin a bevy of wonderful chocolatiers, many doing all the work themselves: BonBonBar, Neo Cocoa, Kika’s Treats, Her Coconess, Au Couer des Chocolats, Jade Chocolates, Charles Chocolates, Gateau et Ganache, and Coco-luxe. And while not exactly chocolate, other Bay Area stars are Anastasia’s Sweet Revolution caramel, Claire Squares addictive chocolate / caramel / shortbread, and Clarine’s Florentines (the best florentine’s per David Lebovitz…and me). And many more. This list shows just how the Bay Area has become a hub for confectioners and chocolate makers.
-Toured TCHO, an impressive bean to bar chocolate factory on the Pier.
-Raw chocolate started to pop up on the scene, with Snake & Butterfly at the Campbell farmer’s market impressing me with their “unraw” quality. Fearless popped up under the radar in Oakland and seems to be making it big.
2010:
-Had the pleasure of indulging in and writing about Vice Chocolates, currently selling at a single farmer’s market in Oakland.
-At the Good Food Awards judging discovered Bittersweet‘s own bean to bar chocolate.
-Went back to the future at a funky old See’s shop in South San Francisco. While stuck at SFO someone tipped me off that you can hop on a hotel shuttle that zooms you up to this See’s and Costco. You didn’t hear it from me! Oh, I guess you did.
2011:
-Heard a couple of guys are opening a chocolate making factory in the Mission and remembered tasting from their early batches, made in a garage, ala Hewlett Packard. Will be exciting to see if they’re the next Scharffen Berger!
-Anticipating the Epicuring chocolatiers tour, to learn more about Poco Dolce and Telltale Preserves… and for Shawn from Au Coeur des Chocolats to be discovered for his mastery.
A New Generation of Chocolatiers
Venues like the Underground Market are helping a new generation of chocolatiers test out their wares, while deciding if they want to go into business.
After much personal “investigation,” I think Michelle’s Droga Confections (peanut rocky road clusters and wildflower honey caramels) will be the next hot thing. She is making the candy herself, using Marshall’s honey and all sorts of good ingredients. It’s hard to do it all and she plans to get help, but if you like to buy local, and you haven’t had her rocky road, jet on over to Bi-rite. Doctor’s orders!
While technically out of the Bay Area, Yummy Dummy Chocolate Company of Davis remains one of my favorite chocolate stories: This chocolate bar company is led and run by a team of under-10 girls – from operations through chocolate making.
How brilliant an education: Inspire kids with chocolate to learn every possible life and business skill along the way. Shawn Askinosie has his Chocolate University. I’d love to see a Chocolate Grade School.
What’s your chocolate history, present and future?
You can visit them all January 22nd, in San Francisco!
In celebration of Good Food Month, please join culinary consultant Laiko Bahrs and yours truly on an insider Chocolatiers of San Francisco tour. We’ll experience three wonderful local makers of artisan chocolate confections, pastry, and preserves in the Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco:
Shawn Williams, chocolatier and co-founder of Au Coeur Des Chocolats creates unforgettable European-style chocolates filled with delectable combinations like banana caramel and candied orange and hazelnut crunch.
A master of patisserie as well as confection, Shawn will demonstrate
how to mold a chocolate bar,
make decadent hot chocolate with cream, and
assemble and torch s’mores.
We’ll taste all of these as well as his assorted chocolates.
Pastry chef and chocolatier William Werner is the owner ofTell Tale Preserves, the soon-to-open pâtisserie, delicatessen and café on Maiden Lane and the Tell Tale Society, a monthly subscription bag filled with seasonally influenced preserves, confections, cookies and cakes, both sweet and savory. William will walk us through his production facility, share his vision, and we’ll taste his chocolate and coffee confiture.
Kathy Wiley, founder and chocolatier of Poco Dolceis the visionary behind thehugely popular handmade chocolate tiles that are on the savory side of sweet. Kathy will take us on a tour of her chocolate factory and we’ll taste her addictive chocolate confections and her new chocolate bar.
$10 of each ticket will be donated to La Cocina to enable aspiring food entrepreneurs.
Attendance is limited and pre-purchased tickets are required–> Buy tickets
Friday12/10: La Cocina Gift Fair in San Francisco - Always beautiful and scrumptious gifts from the lower income food entrepreneurs of the La Cocina incubator.
Friday 12/10: The Hub in San Francisco hosts a benefit holiday party for local human services non-profits.
Sat & Sun: 12/11-12: Aftelier Perfumes Open House in Berkeley – Perfumes and teas made the truly artisan way using the “purest, most sublime botanical essences from around the world.” I have yet to experience Mandy’s perfumes but I have a feeling they are the perfume equivalent of experiencing the finest chocolates.
Saturday: 12/11: Omnivore Books – San Francisco – Jessica Theroux reads from her new book Cooking with Italian Grandmothers.” How cute would it be to give this book along with Italian ingredients? Molto!
How does an American family farm thrive in a time with imports flooding the market? Great produce, value-added products, and diversity.
Through San Francisco’s CUESA – The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture – I recently toured Glashoff Farms, an 89-acre, 100+ year old Suisun Valley farm owned by the Glashoffs for several generations. Today they grow berries and walnuts (with trees over 150 years old!), as well as oranges, prunes, persimmons and more.
Obsessed with walnuts, I was in heaven seeing the harvesting and processing, ending with a taste of their walnut oil. Take a tour though the farm through my eyes and taste the Glashoff’s produce at the Ferry Building on Saturdays.
Visiting the Farm
Plan to visit Glashoff next year for their berry u-picking. You can also orer online or drop by the farm on a trip to Napa (just a few miles away!) to buy some fresh walnuts, jams, and more in their “honor system” store.
A diversified family farm is a good thing! Look for the sign...
Down go the walnuts!
Walnuts are raked up after they shake the tree.
The walnut skins and shells have a natural herbicide quality.
The majority of the walnuts are processed into walnut oil. Previously part of the Blue Diamond growers co-operative, when the price of walnuts plummeted, the Glashoffs decided to process the nuts into the high value walnut oil (delicious as a bread dipper, in desserts, or dressings).
The walnut processing is a pretty old fashioned, compact operation.
Honor Farm Stand
Maria said the farm stand has been very successful in terms of selling their products without oversight. I marked up the photo to point out a few things for other farms thinking of doing the same.
They have detailed instructions for visitors (1) as well as promotion of the u-pick. The stand has both fresh products (2) as well as their jams (3) and other “value added” higher margin products.
Glashoff's Honor Farm Stand. Click to see larger.
CUESA provided a 5 star lunch made with farmer's market produce.
The Future: Helping the Family Farm with Agri-tourism
After studying at Chico, daughter Lizzy is returning to the farm to help the business diversify even more by hosting events and possibly agri-tourism stays. An idyllic setting with gardens and so close to major roads, it’s a natural! Stay turned for more.
Maria, Susie (the nutty fig girl) and Lizzy
About CUESA Events in San Francisco & Beyond
CUESA “is dedicated to promoting a sustainable food system through the operation of the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market and its educational programs.
They arrange some wonderful educational events both at the Ferry Building Marketplace and outings in San Francisco in beyond – great for tourists and locals who want to learn more about sustainable food and agriculture.
For food entrepreneurs and the people who love them, Susie Wyshak--consultant, author & speaker--writes about successful food businesses; observations on trends and customer experience; and, offers ideas from her travels and encounters with makers, farmers, and experts.